Incredible Folding Table Is Genius

Now that the warmer weather is finally here people will be going outside to enjoy the sun and have a have a picnic or maybe a barbecue. Izzy Swan has created a very cool folding table that is perfect to sit four people. And when the meal is over, just fold it up.


Source: http://www.viralviralvideos.com/2015/03/16/incredible-folding-table-is-genius/

TOP 40 WOODWORKING TOOLS

Every trade has its tools, and woodworking is no different. Any craftsman knows that the right tool for the project is critical in manufacturing a quality end product in a timely manner.  Here is a tally of the top 40 tools every woodworker should think about owning:

Hand Tools You Must Have

Hand tools get their power from your muscles. They’re power tools, but not electrical power. Here is a pretty comprehensive list of hand tools that every woodworker or cabinet maker should think about having in his shop:

#1: The Claw Hammer

Let’s start with perhaps the most basic tool in every household – the claw hammer. The claw on one side of the head should be well counter balanced by the finish head, which should be somewhat rounded. The other kind of head is the waffle-head. Most commonly used in construction, it leaves a distinctive waffle mark on the wood when you drive the nail. This, of course, is not the proper nail for woodworking.

A poorly-balanced claw hammer will twist in your hand, making it difficult to drive nails properly. You normally grip a claw hammer with your hand at the back of the grip, letting the weight of the head do most of the work. All you have to do is direct the driving surface toward the right nail, sparing the ones on your hand.

The most commonly-purchased claw hammer is the 20 oz. size. It’s heavy enough to easily drive nails, but easily manipulated when pulling nails. While wooden handles are picturesque, they may not stand up to the strain if you have to pull a lot of nails. Hammers with a steel handle, or even fiberglass, will be stronger. However, these won’t absorb the vibrations from driving nails the way a hickory handle will. You’ll also need to make sure the fiberglass and metal handles have a rubberized grip for control and comfort. If you’re going to be driving a lot of nails, the wooden handled hammer will be better for reducing stress on your hand, and wrist, too.

#2: The Tape Measure

The next important hand tool for the woodworker is an accurate tape measure. Get a retractable one that is at least 25 feet long. Any longer than that, and you start having problems getting it to roll back up. Since measurements on large scale projects can be very susceptible to even the most minute measurement variations, you’ll want to make sure the “hook” or tab at the end of the is firmly attached, with no give. When they get loose, you’ll have as much as 1/8” variation in your measurements. This can add up to some severe accuracy problems in the long run.

#3: The Utility Knife

A good utility knife is another asset for the woodworker. There are many different kinds, but the kind that uses disposable blades is the most common. The blade retracts into the grip for safety. The woodworker will use the utility knife when cleaning out mortise joints or scribing wood, as well as many other uses.

#4: The Moisture Meter

A quality wood moisture meter is vital to the long-term success of any woodworking project you put together. Lumber mills try to dry their batches of lumber according to the intended end product destination. That is, if wood is harvested in the wet Northeast, but is going to be shipped to the arid Southwest, it will be dried more than wood kept in the Northeast for use by woodworkers. The success of your woodworking project, from wood flooring to kitchen cabinets to fine furniture, depends on the correct moisture content levels of the woods you use for your area of the country.

Some moisture meters have pins that penetrate the surface of the wood. This can leave tiny holes that mar the surface and require filling. Others are pinless. They have sensing plates that scan the wood beneath. However, not all pinless moisture meters are the same – look for one that uses technology that is not affected by the surface moisture on the wood, such as “Wagner Meters IntelliSense® Technology Moisture Meters.

Your moisture meter should have settings on it that will account for different species of wood. For instance, oak is a hardwood, but ebony is an even harder density wood. If you are planning an inlay job using both types of wood, you will need to know the moisture content levels of each of the two species so that your inlay glue joints will stay intact.  These different wood species have different specific gravities, which must be used or programmed into the moisture meter.

Therefore, you must measure each species of wood you are using in your woodworking project to verify that they are at the correct moisture content before you manufacture it into your end product.

#5: The Chisel

An assortment of chisels should be part of every workbench.  Chisels are not just for wood carvers. Any woodworker will need chisels to clean out joints and saw cuts. Look for chisels made of high-alloy carbon steel or chromium-vanadium alloyed steel. Hardwood grips are best, especially if they have metal caps on them. This will keep the end of the handle from becoming malformed when you hammer on it.

You’ll need a variety of sizes in ¼” increments from ¼” to at least 1½”. The smallest chisels are best for mortise work. The ¾” and 1” will be best for door hinges, and the 1½” works well for chipping out. You can even get a corner chisel that cuts a notch out of the wood with the blow of a hammer, much like a hole punch.
Most chisels are beveled on the 2 sides and on the cutting edge, but specialty chisels may only be beveled at the cutting edge. This bevel will be at 20 to 25 degrees down the length of the blade on one side, and flat on the backside. The blade will be between 4” and 7” long. Make sure you get chisels with a grip that fits your hand. If the grip is too small, you won’t be able to hold the chisel steady as you work. Be sure to use a mallet or wood hammer when you work, so that you don’t destroy the head on your chisel. Keep track of the edge caps, keep them sharp, and oil the metal now and then after you’ve used them, and they should be good for years. If you don’t have the edge caps, get a roll to keep them in. This will prevent them from bouncing around in your tool box drawers and getting damaged.

Using your chisels involves both hands. This allows for power and control of the chisel as it pares away the wood. If you need a little “umph” behind the chisel, bump it with the heel of the off hand, or strike it with a mallet. A claw hammer will damage the butt end of your chisel, eventually splitting it if you abuse it too often.

When you sharpen your chisel, you may want to use stones rather than a grinder. You need a set of stones of increasingly fine grit to hone the blades properly. Start with the coarser grade, and end with the finest grade. You may have to moisten the stone with oil for best results. Also, remember to hone the blades away from your body.

#6: The Level

Every woodworker needs a couple of levels. You probably won’t need one of the 6-foot levels used in construction, but 48” is a good length for many of the woodworking projects you’ll do. Usually, you’ll also need an 8” level too, usually known as a torpedo level. You’ll check the level and plum of your construction. Level is horizontal, and plumb is vertical.

Most quality levels are made of either brass-edged wood or of metal. There will be a bubble reading for level, and another one for plumb. When the bubble is exactly between the lines, you have a level or plumb surface. You can also get string levels and laser levels, but the woodworker will use these types of levels the most often.

#7: The Screwdriver

Screwdrivers are another must-have in the woodworker’s set of hand tools. Not only will you need Phillips and slot, or flathead screwdrivers, you’ll need star drivers and Torx drivers, too. A quality construction is vital to a good set of screwdrivers. So many of them are made out of soft metal, and the first time you put any “umph” behind them, they strip out, becoming absolutely useless.

You’ll need a long screwdriver with a square blade that is very heavy duty. This gives you a lot of torque. You’ll also need a small and medium slot screwdriver. For working on cabinets or tight places in woodworking, you’ll need a screwdriver with a thin shank so that you can reach screws that are inside of deep holes. This is accomplished with a cabinet screwdriver. Get a couple of medium Phillips head screwdrivers, and a stubby one too, for those tight places. You may also want a ratcheting screwdriver.

If your slot screwdrivers are high-quality material, you’ll be able to grind them flat when they get worn. Beware, though, that too much heat will change the temper of the metal, weakening it so that it won’t drive or draw screws. By the way, some of Dad’s tips for getting the most out of his screwdrivers:

1. Use the right size blade for the screw.
2. For stubborn screws, fit the driver into the screw, put as much downward pressure as you can on the screwdriver, and strike the end with a hammer. This more often than not will pop the screw loose. It also helps with screws that have stripped out.
3. Put beeswax on the threads of screws before you drive screws into hardwood. If you don’t have beeswax, use soap. It makes the screws drive more easily.
4. You’ll get more driving force with a shorter shank.
5. Use a crescent wrench on the blade to get more torque.
6. Some people can magnetize a screwdriver by holding it up and striking it with a metal bar. It realigns the molecules, making it magnetic. You can also break your screwdrivers doing this, so be careful!
7. Get a pry bar. Keep it with your screwdrivers, and every time you need a pry bar, leave your screwdrivers alone!

#8: The Nail Set

The next hand tool every woodworker should have is a nail set. In fact, you should have several sizes. They look like awls, and you use them to drive nail heads into the wood so they are flush or right below the surface. This allows you to fill the holes and prepare for staining or painting. The nail setter will usually have either a convex or concave surface to grip the nail better and keep it from sliding off and marring the wood.

#9: The Sliding Bevel

If you’re going to be measuring a bunch of angles, a sliding bevel, or T Bevel, will be a handy tool. This is adjustable, and you can lock it at the angle you want to mark, making it much more time-savvy to mark multiple angles.

#10: The Layout Square

A layout square, or combination square, comes in 6” and 12” sizes. Most woodworkers use the 6” model, simply because it’s easiest to carry around. Also, most of the stock you’ll use will be no bigger than 6” wide, so 12” is overkill. The layout square is a triangle that you can use to mark square cuts on stock. Once you measure the length of the cut, you line up the layout square with the edge of the board. The short side will give you a straight, square cut across the end grain. You can also measure off angles with the layout square. This helps when you’re trying to measure for a bevel on a table saw, or marking a cut for a miter saw. You can even use your layout square to determine an existing angle. Just be sure to buy one made of metal. The plastic ones are not only fragile, but they also can warp, making them pretty useless.

#11: The Block Plane

A block plane is the key to versatility in your woodwork. You can flatten a piece of wood, add a curve to it, or square your work. Shape or chamfer your stock using a block plane. Once you have a piece dovetailed, you can smooth the joint with your block plane, rather than spending endless time sanding. Your plane can ease the edges of a piece, taking the sharpness out of it.

It is most important to make sure the blade of the block plane is sharp. Use a little bit of oil on the sharpening stone and hold the bevel flat against the stone. Raise the heel a little, and hone it. It will form a burr, but that’s OK. Just turn the blade over and rub it on the stone on the flat side. It will remove the burr. A cap screw holds the blade in place, and this is where you adjust the depth of plane you want to cut.

If you’re performing fine work, you’ll measure the blade at about 1/64”. For more general work, you’ll go with as much as 1/16”. Roll the pressure from the back of the plane to the front as you complete the cut, so that you don’t end up with arching. If you’re going to plane end grain, plain both ends toward the middle to keep from tearing up the outside edge.

#12: The Caliper

A set of calipers is a must for fine-tuning your woodworking projects. You can even get digital calipers now, that leave no guesswork as to whether you were inside or outside the line. Of course, the metal ones are always recommended over those made of plastic, even though the plastic ones are cheaper.

Calipers have a double “F” appearance. To one side is a large “F”, used to measure the outside of an object. To the other side will be a smaller “f”, used to measure the inside of openings. You loosen the screw to move the lower “lip” of the caliper, then tighten the screw into place when you have the caliper placed correctly.

You’ll use the inside calipers to measure slot diameters, hole diameters, and dado widths, among other things. There is also a depth gauge in the end of calipers that will allow you to measure the depth of slots and holes. You just rest the end of the caliper on the edge of the hole and twist the thumbscrew until the probe reaches the bottom of the hole. Then, you can take your reading. If you need to measure the exact thickness of something attached to a flat surface, you can use the calipers to determine the thickness by placing the butt of the caliper end against the flat surface, and use the inside caliper lip that’s closest to your hand to record the surface of the item you’re measuring. The distance from the backside of that caliper lip to the end of the caliper is the thickness of the piece you’re measuring.

While calipers will measure up to 1/1000ths of an inch, you won’t need that kind of tight tolerance. Remember that wood is an organic material, it expands and contracts with the relative humidity and with temperature fluctuations. Trimming everything to 1/1000ths tolerance will not leave the piece enough room to breathe.

#13: The Clamp

Clamps are vital to the success of any woodworking project. Most woodworkers agree that you can’t have too many clamps. While they can get expensive, you don’t want to skimp in this area. You’ll need clamps for 45 and 90 degree joints, and pipe clamps to reach for long stretches. You usually purchase the pipe clamp fixtures, and insert your own pipe into the fixtures to make a really strong clamp to the size you need. C clamps and F clamps are the standard, but now you can get K camps, too. The great thing about these is that they can reach a long way into your work area and clamp things in the middle of your workspace. Deep-throated bar clamps and C clamps will help with this.

You can’t get by without a selection of quick grip clamps in various sizes. These are available with spreaders of 12” or more, all the way down to micro-mini clamps for toy construction. An edge clamp will hold laminate trim onto the edge of a counter or table top. A strap clamp will wrap around any shape, and pull the joints together. Spring clamps are handy for holding a piece steady. The main difference between quick clamps and spring clamps is that the quick clamps slide into position with one hand. When you release them, they lock into place. Spring clamps are like big clothespins.

Hand Screw Clamps are the classic-looking wooden clamps with the awl screws that you turn from both sides to get equal pressure. These are great for applying a lot of pressure on tapered or sloped pieces.  Assembly square clamps do just what the name implies – they help you assemble squares. You can also get bench clamps and “dogs”, as well as other clamps and vises that attach to your workbench.

#14: The Jig

You don’t have to measure every single cut and joint if you have jigs. Most woodworkers make their own jigs. You usually use a jig with a power tool, to guide the piece through the saw. You can make a jig to cut a perfect circle. Maybe you need to make furniture with tapered legs. A jig will accomplish this, without the hassle of re-marking the angles on each leg. A dovetail jig does just that – it guides your wood as you make dovetail joints.

#15: The Hand Saw

A high-quality hand saw should not be overlooked. In fact, a select collection of hand saws may be one of the more valuable additions to your woodworking shop. You don’t have to use a power saw on everything – in fact, you probably won’t want to. You need to be able to feel the wood’s response under the saw blade, and the saw blade’s response to the wood. Besides a coping and a tenon saw, you may want a dovetail saw and a hand miter saw, too. In fact, for many woodworkers, a fine collection of Japanese saws is the backbone of their craft.

For general use, start out with a fretsaw for woodworkers – it’s like a coping saw for wood. You need a mini saw, too, for areas in which a chisel just won’t work. Then, a good tenon saw should follow, along with a miter box that you can use with the tenon saw. Other saws, with their variety of cutting surfaces and angles, will come as the need arises.

#16: The Feather Board

Feather boards are important for achieving smooth, quality cuts. You’ll use a feather board with all kinds of saws and other cutting surfaces to push the material past the cutting edge. You can make your own feather boards, or purchase them instead. Most woodworkers find it easier to just make them to suit their own needs.

 #17: The Metal Detector

No, you’re not looking for buried treasure with your metal detector. You’re looking for something that could ruin your treasures – namely, your woodworking tools. It is of vital importance to keep metal out of your cutting surfaces, or you’ll ruin blades, bits, and knives on your tools. A quick scan with a metal detector will let you know if there is a piece of screw or nail still lodged in your stock. You’ll find out anyway, it’s just nice to find out before you ruin your tools.

Furniture and Storage

Organization is important in the shop, if you want to be able to find all the fabulous tools you are accumulating. This is where you get to build-to-suit your own furniture and work surfaces.

#18: The Saw Horse

Saw horses, of course, are a natural in any woodworking shop or construction site. There are actually patterns available that you can use to build your own stacking sawhorses. If you build your sawhorses properly, they’ll hold up to 500 lbs. apiece. They’re even fairly cheap to build. Your saw horses will serve countless uses around your shop, from providing backup as you saw and drill, to extending your work surface while using power saws.

#19: The Work Bench

You’ll need a work bench, or work table in your shop. Don’t try to be noble and make do with the table for your table saw. It won’t be big enough or stable enough, and your saw will get in the way. You can get patterns for work benches too, just like with saw horses.

Your work bench can be portable, on retracting or locking casters, or it can be fixed. It’s however you want it. There aren’t even any rules about measurements, since work benches are usually based on the amount of room you may have.

If you have the room, a double sided work bench is nice, where you can work on both sides of the table from the center of the room, or have a partner working with you. If it’s up against the wall, make sure that it doesn’t get so deep that you can’t reach stuff that gets pushed toward the wall. Then it just ends up being a piled mess, and you can’t work on your work table. It’s up to you as to whether you have storage under your work bench or not. Just remember that you’ve got to reach everything you store under the bench.

#20: The Tool Storage System

Tool storage is totally up to your own personal style. Some people are just messy, and leave things piled around. They simply remember that they left the moisture meter on the router table. However, think about your organizational system. You may want to build locking cabinets or open shelves. Many woodworkers display fasteners in Mason jars that they twist into lids that have been nailed to an overhead board. Others have spent too many hours picking fasteners out of the shattered remains of Mason jars, and don’t like that method.

If you use a peg board for hand tools over your workbench, remember to build the workbench narrow enough for you to reach the peg board. A rolling mechanic’s tool box may be the solution to your hand tool storage, and a tackle box for fasteners.  Others have hardware store-style bins for the many pieces that accompany woodworking. However you choose to organize your tools and accessories, remember that your time on task is aided when you can find all of your tools. It’s also easier to take care of expensive equipment when you have easy access to it. And keeping your fasteners sorted and easily accessible may save you a trip to the hardware store.

Power Tools You Should Own

A power tool is, technically, anything that requires electrical power to function. Here, we’ll start with the most humble of power tools. The really good stuff comes later.

#21: The Shop-Vac

You may not think of a shop vac as a woodworking tool, but just try to get any work done with your saws kicking up powdery sawdust into your eyes. Now, you can go all out, and get a built in vacuum system installed. This is much like the home vacuums that have outlets in every room of the house. You just take a hose with you from one room to the other, plug it in, and the vacuum does its job, taking everything to the central vacuum receptacle.

While this may be a dream scenario, the more realistic version is the portable shop vac. You can use one of your handy clamps listed previously and clamp the hose to your saw, vacuuming up the sawdust as it’s made. This keeps your cutting line clear and unobstructed. If you choose a wet/dry vac, you’re getting even more for your money. Be sure to get one with enough amps in the motor. Low amps in these small motors usually mean low power, and you want it to work as hard as you do.

#22: The Bench Grinder

Get a good bench grinder. It doesn’t have to be in the way – you can make a stand for it and keep it in the corner. But you’ll be amazed at how much you’ll use a bench grinder. You’ve got to keep all of your chisels sharp, and keep the burrs off of your screwdrivers, too. A grinder doesn’t cost that much, and the time and expense it saves you when you have dull tools will pay for itself in no time.

#23: The Circular Saw

A good circular saw is one of the most versatile tools you can own. Most people consider the circular saw to be a carpentry tool, but combined with proper clamping of your materials, they are just as accurate as any table saw. Plus, you can use a circular saw for tasks that you could never attempt with a table saw. It makes a lot more sense to set up a couple of saw horses and get out the circular saw to cut a sheet of plywood or MDF than to try to maneuver around in your shop to cut them on a table saw. A high-quality circular saw should be the first power tool in your shop.

All of your saws will have options on how many teeth-per-inch, or TPI you use. To make your decision, you need to know what you are striving for with a cut. A saw blade with a lot of teeth will make smoother cuts. However, you run the risk of burning your wood. This is because a fine-toothed saw moves more slowly through the stock. It also doesn’t clear the sawdust out of the cut as quickly, since the gaps between the teeth are smaller. These gaps are called gullets, and on fine-toothed saws, numerous small gullets hold more sawdust than the bigger gullets on a wide-toothed saw. The wide-toothed saws will aggressively buzz through your stock with less burning, but the cut will be rougher, probably requiring refinement with your orbital sander or jointer.

As a general rule of thumb, you should keep a selection of blades for your saws. Your circular saw and table saw, as well, can make rough cuts with a 40-tooth saw blade, and plywoods and other laminated materials will work well with an 80-tooth saw blade.

If you know that the blades of your saws are right, but are still having trouble getting the cut you want, the moisture content of your stock may be wrong. Wood that has a moisture content level that is too high for your area will “feather” when it’s cut, regardless of the size or sharpness of the blades. Wood that is too dry will crack and split when you cut it. If it seems that no matter what you do to your saws, you still don’t get satisfactory cuts, use your moisture meter to check the moisture content levels of your stock.

#24: The Power Drill

The next power tool you should purchase is a power drill. Now, many people swear by cordless drills, but they’re more expensive, and they can’t do everything that an electric drill can do – that’s where the term “power” comes in. Power drills are not as expensive, and they’re more powerful than cordless drills, which do have their place in your shop. The steady power that comes with a corded drill makes it a better tool for extended use, especially when using large bits such as paddle bits.

Most power drills are variable speed, with 2 speeds to choose from. When you select a power drill, you’ll choose which sized chuck you want – 3/8” or ½”. This will determine the size of bit you can use. If you anticipate the need for larger drill bits, such as for lag bolts used in decking, you may want the ½” drill. They also have more power. Typically, both chucks accommodate the smallest diameter whether you use a keyless chuck or not. Some people swear by keyless chucks, others find that they occasionally loosen. Others find that keyed chucks loosen. It’s up to you.

#25: The Sabre Saw

Every woodworker should have a sabre saw. Often called a jigsaw, it will allow you to cut curves and patterns in your stock materials. You’ll probably need an electric one, rather than a battery-operated, although the battery-powered sabre saws work fine on thin material and for limited use. You need to find one that fits your hand. Too small, and you can’t grip it; too large, and you can’t control it. For thicker materials, you’ll need a band saw, which we’ll cover later.

#26: The Palm Sander

A good palm sander is vital to any woodworker’s power tool collection. The palm sander will use ¼ sheet of sanding paper, and is small enough to get into tight places. However, you should be careful not to sand patterns into your finished work with the palm sander. They usually move in a circular pattern,  or back and forth. Either way, they can leave swirls and streaks in your wood that show up once it is stained, so be sure to keep it moving across the surface you are sanding so that you don’t sand grooves into your wood.

#27: The Random Orbital Sander

A random orbital sander is actually a step up from the “little brother” version – the palm sander. The random orbital sander uses hook and loop (Velcro) to fasten the sanding disks to the sanding pad. The random movement of the disk helps to avoid sanding patterns into your wood. Your main precaution with this tool is to make sure that your hardware supply store has discs in stock in every grit. Otherwise, you’ll have a sander that you can’t use because you can’t find sanding pads for it.

#28: The Table Saw

Now, we start getting into the first permanent fixture in your woodworking shop – the table saw. Of course, table saws can be loaded in the bed of your truck, so, technically, they’re portable. But, the table saw is not one you can pick up with one hand and head to the worksite. The table saw will be the workhorse of your shop, so get a good one. You’ll use it to rip, miter, shape, square, groove, and join, so a good saw that suits your needs is vital.

The work surface should be heavy duty to withstand the abuse it will take. Look for a handle to raise and lower the saw blade easily. It should have another handle so that you can adjust the angle of the blade. See if there are connections for a dust collector, too, to make that aspect easier. You’ll want your table saw to have enough power to cut through hard wood and make deep cuts. Again, look at amps and horsepower. The motor should start with little to no vibration and run smoothly. Make sure it has a blade guard and that the on/off switch is easy to reach. These days, the power switch is a paddle that is easily pressed with you knee if you need an emergency off.

The blades for your table saw are in the same categories as the hand saws: rip and crosscut. The rip blades have deep gullets. The crosscut blade has a kerf, or extra cutting chisels, on every tooth, on alternating sides. This produces a very fine cut surface. Rip blades are designed to cut with the grain of the wood, as you rip stock. Crosscut blades can cut either with or against the grain. The most commonly-purchased blades are combination blades, ranging from 24 TPI to 80 TPI.

As pitch from the wood you cut accumulates on your saw blades, you’ll need to pause and take time to clean them off. The pitch will heat up as you use the blade, and overheat the blade, damaging it. There are a number of commercial cleaners available, but you can just soak them in oven cleaner. This will dissolve the pitch, with only a little rubbing. Do not use any abrasives on your saw blades. Scrubbing cleansers and rough pads will leave scratches on the blade, which will only hold more pitch, making the problem worse the next time you need to clean the blade.
All saw blades dull over time, but your circular saw and table saw blades can be resharpened, if they are carbide. Since carbide blades are more expensive, this feature makes the blade more cost-effective, since sharpening will prolong the life of the blade.

Your drill press will have a platform for the stock you are drilling, but your table saw will have – well – a table. There are a few precautions you should take with each of the tables you use with your saws and drills. These tables are usually made of cast iron. Cast iron rusts easily. It will come with a special grease that protects the surface during storage. You’ll need to clean the grease off of the surface, and apply a protectant in its place that won’t stain your stock or be a fire hazard. Possibly the best product for this is simple car wax. Carnauba wax protects your car from harsh elements, and will do the same for your table. Just be very sure that you don’t use silicone wax, because the residue interferes with the finish on certain woods.

#29: The Rip Fence

Your table saw should have a rip fence. You’ll want one with fine-tuning adjustment that runs parallel to the blade. Some rip fences have an adjustment knob on each end of the fence, others on just one end. The main thing to look for is torque. When you move the fence, do both ends move evenly, or does the far end hand up? This can be a real problem, and you’ll save yourself a lot of frustration and stock lumber if you have a rip fence that stays parallel to the cutting blade.

#30: The Miter Gauge

Look for a T-groove miter gauge on your table saw. While most saws have a built-in miter gauge, it may move out of the groove when you’re making your cuts. The gauge needs to slide smoothly in its grooves without being loose.

#31: The Jig and Dado

Your table saw is much more versatile if you have the full range of dados and jigs to use with it. Jigs were mentioned earlier in this list, and their use for tenons, tapering, panel- cutting, and many other uses. A stacked dado is two blades with a set of chippers in between. This is used for cutting grooves, or removing large parts of stock. The saw blades make the side of the groove straight while the chipper removes the large part of the material between the saw blades. You can adjust the width of the chippers to get bigger cuts. You can also use a wobble blade for this, but it – wobbles – and vibrates your table saw, and won’t cut a flat edge.

#32: The Compound Miter Saw

You already have a tenon saw with a miter box, but if you’re going to get into crown molding and other such projects, you’ll need a compound miter saw. You may have used your circular saw for those beveled cuts and miters. However, nothing beats the precision of a good compound miter saw for those combination cuts.

A miter saw can be set to bevel up to 45 degrees, and will cut at a 60 degree angle in both directions. The miter gauge on your saw should be easy to read and clearly marked. There should be hard stops at each major point, such as 0, 15, 22.5, 30, and 45. These degrees should be stopped on both sides. Not only that, but you should be able to lock the saw at any angle you wish.

The bevel on the saw is the ability to tilt the saw to compound the cut – hence the name. This gives you the ability to cut 2 angles with one cut. You’ll need the 10” saw blade if you intend to cut 6” lumber. The 12” blade is nice, but few people really need the extra size, although they appreciate it if they have it. 8” blades are just too small for most woodworkers. You can find compound miter saws with a sliding arm function, like a radial arm saw, but they’re pretty pricey.

#33: The Router

Every woodworker should have a router. With the router, you can shape the edges of your work. The variety of shapes is endless, with the various bits available. If you’re a beginner, a stationary base router will do almost everything you need. This will start and end the cut at the same depth that you set before you make the cut.

A plunge router allows you to plunge the bit into the wood, make your cut, then lift it back out. You can use your stationary router in a router table, making long cuts with ease using a fence. Some woodworkers even convert their table saw to accept a stationary router so that they can use the rip fence and feather boards.

You should get a router with at least 2 HP, or it will be underpowered for hardwoods. It needs variable speeds, since large bits need to operate at slower speeds. If you don’t have a variable speed router, you can burn your bits. You’ll also burn hardwoods, if you can’t slow down the router speed.

Consider the size of the collet, too. This is like the drill size – they’re available in ¼” and ½” size. You can put the smaller bits in the larger size, but not the other way around. The larger bits are harder to find in the stores, and are more expensive. They balance out their cost and rarity, though, because they are more stable than the ¼” bits, and won’t chatter as much during use.

You’ll need to decide between grips on the router. Some of them have pistol grips that you hold with one hand, others have 2 handles on opposite sides. Think about the weight of the router and the uses, and decide which is best for you. Either way, though, the on/off switch should be within finger reach. You shouldn’t have to move one of your hands to switch it on or off.

Some of the newer routers have sensors that evaluate the load. They adjust the RPMs accordingly to keep them within a given range.

#34: The Band Saw

You just can’t beat a band saw for cutting precise shapes and curves. But, what a lot of woodworkers don’t realize is that the band saw is a powerful ally when cutting rabbets and tenons. You can also rip small pieces of wood and even make your own laminate strips with a band saw. There are free-standing, or cabinet band saws and table mount models that you can attach to a work bench or a dedicated stand. The free-standing models are usually bigger, more sturdy saws that have more features. They also have larger motors. These are the models used by professionals. However, you can still get professional results from a mounted saw.

You’ll want to look for 2 things with your band saw: depth of cut and throat. The depth of cut is the distance between the cutting plate and the upper guides on the blade. This will determine the thickness of stock you can cut. There are some saws, however, that can have risers attached to make it possible to cut thicker materials, so you can go from 6” to 12” with the use of a riser.

The throat is the distance from the saw blade to the back frame of the saw. A cabinet band saw will have a deeper throat, usually about 18”, while the bench models have 12” to 14” throats. This will determine the width of stock that you can cut. When you see information referring to a 12” band saw, it’s referring to the throat.

The size of the motor will matter. Most band saws made for home hobbyists will have up to a 1 HP motor. More expensive ones will have variable speeds, but the woodworker doesn’t usually use the different speeds. The slower speeds are intended for cutting metal and plastic. They may come in handy if you’re planning on shaping exotic woods such as acacia or bamboo. Just be sure to check the moisture content levels in these woods before you make any fine applications, or they’ll change size and mess up your work.

The cutting surface, or table, should be made of steel alloy, aluminum alloy, or cast-iron. It should also be adjustable up to 45 degrees, so that you can make cuts at an angle. The measurements of the cutting surface should be about 16” x 16”, with miter marks.

The saw blade of the band saw is actually a continuous band, like an alternator belt, with teeth on one side. It rides on 2 wheels. The width of the band will determine the radius of the curve you can cut. As a woodworker, you’ll want saw blades from 1/8” to 1” in width, keeping in mind that with the wider blade, you can’t cut as wide on your curves. The number of teeth per inch will matter here, too, with 1/2″, ¾”, and 1” blades at about 3 teeth per inch, and thinner blades with more teeth.

The wheels on which the saw band rides should have a brush on them to keep debris from accumulating. These look like the bristles from a paint brush being held in a clamp. You’ll need to change out the brushes once or twice during the lifetime of your band saw.

Between the band saw blade and the wheel is a tire. This looks like a big rubber band. Most of them are made of either rubber or urethane. You have to glue the rubber ones onto the wheel, while the urethane doesn’t have to be glued down. The urethane also lasts longer, too. The tires you choose for your saw should be a little smaller than the wheel – again, it’s like an alternator belt. You want it to be tight. If you have a band saw that just doesn’t do the job any more, consider your maintenance of the machine. It could be that it just needs new tires and brushes. If the tires are dried out and cracked, the saw blade will drift and chatter. If the tires and brushes have been worn out for a long time, you may even need new wheels. But, once you replace all of these and adjust the wheels, you should have a smooth-running cutting machine.

# 35: The Radial Arm Saw

The radial arm saw is expensive, bulky, and heavy. And, it’s absolutely indispensable to those who own one. If you choose to get one, just plan to have a permanent home for it, because it’s probably not going to travel to worksites with you.

The radial arm saw is usually used to perform crosscuts. However, you can use it for bevels and miters, dadoes, rabbets, moldings, and even as a router guide. It can perform the same functions as a compound miter saw and a table saw. However, it’s a little harder to use in these capacities. It’s kind of a trade off – you get a multi-purpose saw for the more extravagant price, but it will be a little harder to use than saws made specifically for those purposes.

With a radial arm saw, you’ll move the saw rather than the material. The depth of the throat will make a difference with this saw. Your set-up will determine the success of your work. Set up your fence carefully, and make sure your stock is snug up against it. Then, turn the saw on, and let the blade get up to full speed before you start pulling it toward you.

Now, with this saw, you’ll get a lurching, crawling effect that you may not be prepared for. Experts say to install the saw on the work table with a very slight backward slant in order to keep it from “walking” forward on your work bench. You’ll also need to be prepared for the saw blade to “grab” the wood. This is one reason that set-up is so important. With a fence securely in place, the wood has nowhere to go, and there’s less opportunity for your hand to get yanked into the blade. The saw will try to determine the speed it travels through the wood. You’ll have to keep a grip on it, and make it go at your speed.

You can use your radial arm saw to cut dadoes and rabbets. Your dadoe blade installs easily into the arm. Just be sure to remember the direction of cut, because it’s different from your table saw. Also, always reinstall the blade guard when you change the blade in any of your saws.

While this saw may be better at cutting complex compound angles, it can be trickier to set up. Once you think you have it set up, make sure the clamping levers are locked into place. You can set the radial arm saw to rip narrower stock. Just make sure that the riving knife and pawls are in place should there be a jam or kick back.

Setting the depth of cut is important. With other saws, since the cut is to the top or outside, this won’t matter. But the radial arm saw is being drawn across the stock, cutting all the way through it into the surface below. So you’ll have to pay close attention to the depth of cut so as to not sacrifice your work surface on a regular basis.

# 36: The Drill Press

While most holes can be drilled with your power drill, there will be applications in your woodworking where a drill press will be invaluable. The drill press provides you with the ability to do precision drilling, and deliver especially accurate large-diameter holes.

One of the best features of a drill press is the ability for you to set the depth of the hole. This is especially useful when you have a number of holes you need to drill, all to the same depth. The drill press also allows you to use forstner bits, hole saws, and spade bits, drilling wide diameter holes to depths that would be very difficult to drill by hand.

The features you should look for when you purchase your drill press will begin with a bench mounted or free-standing model. For the record, the free-standing models usually have larger motors, making them more powerful. This means your work will be smoother. You can also work on larger stock with the free-standing drill press. Look for variable speeds, too. This will be accomplished by the ability to switch the belt to a different pulley setup, changing the speed at which the chuck rotates. This is important because hardwoods and softwoods must be drilled at different speeds (softwoods require faster speeds than hardwoods, while hardwoods will burn at high speeds). Finally, look for a feed that has several handles on it. You want the utmost control when you plunge the drill bit, and having 2 or 3 grips on the lever will help that. The plunge lever should be lockable so that you can set the depth of plunge, with an automatic redraw.

The free-standing floor model may also come with another great feature – the ability to swing the drill table out of the way. Some of them can also be tilted to a 45 degree angle, too.

Look for a table that has slots that allow for the use of clamps, so that you can use jigs and fences on the table. There will be slots on the table that allow for this.

To drill really large stock, look for a drill press that has a really deep throat. Just as with the band saw, this is the distance between the working edge, in this case, the drill bit, and the vertical support at the back of the press.

Your drill press can really help with joinery, as well as in drilling holes. With the proper attachment, you can actually drill square holes. The chisels that cut the square part are attached above the chuck, and the drill bit fits inside. This makes drilling mortise and tenon joints easy.

Other uses and tips for your drill press:

1. Use it for sanding. You can use a sanding drum in the chuck and adjust the table height to sand curved cuts easily.
2. Offset holes are easy to drill when you clamp the piece down.
3. Small pieces can be clamped to the drill press table, preventing them from moving around as you drill.
4. Make a V jig to hold round items, such as chair legs, for drilling.
5. Clamp stop blocks to the drilling table, if you have to drill in the same place on several pieces of wood.

#37: The Surface Planer

The surface planer is high-tech’s solution for the dedicated woodworkers through the generations who have patiently and skillfully planed their stock by hand to get it the right thickness. The time-saving surface planer makes your world much simpler. The planer has a table onto which you feed your stock. This table is between 10” and 14”, so that’s the maximum width of stock you can send through. A set of blades rotate, cutting the wood as it is fed through.

You adjust the depth of cut with a crank, usually on one end of the planer. It actually looks kind of like the wheel on a sewing machine. Most planers will plane your stock down 6 inches, but you need to do this in small increments.

You achieve a smooth, evenly-planed surface, the intake rollers inside the planer will pull the stock in and feed it under the knives, while outtake rollers pull it out the other side. The stock will move slowly and steadily beneath the knives which are rotating at a very high RPM. This yields a smooth finish to your stock. There should be pawls within the planer, so that if the rollers lose their grip on the stock, it won’t kick back out of the machine. You should also check to see if the surface planer you’re considering has a dust vacuum, because the amount of sawdust generated by these machines is epic.

You should always use hearing protection when you’re using a surface planer. These will be the noisiest tools in your workshop, and can cause damage. Safety glasses are also suggested for all power equipment.

Tips for using the surface planer:

1. Hand-feed the stock until both sets of rollers have grabbed it.
2. For extremely long pieces of stock, use extension tables or feed rollers on each end.
3. Keep the stock in line with the plane table to avoid gouges. If the stock enters at an angle, it will be gouged.
4. Stand beside the stock you are feeding into the planer. If you stand behind it, and there is kick-back that the pawls don’t catch, you will be injured.
5. NEVER use your hands to clear a jam. Use a spare piece of scrap lumber to push out anything that gets stuck in the planer.
6. Don’t try to plane items that are too small for the planer. These are best hand-sanded or clamped, with the block plane used, instead.

#38: The Jointer

The jointer is the most reliable and accurate way to ensure square edges. It also will yield flat surfaces that won’t go through your surface planer. Rather than using a saw blade, the jointer uses a cutter head that rotates at high RPM. It is positioned between two tables. The infeed table is usually at a lower height, based on how much you want to remove from your stock. The outfeed table is at the same height as the cutting edge, supporting the board as it is cut. There should also be a fence to help provide accurate cuts. You’ll need a flat edge to do your woodworking, and the jointer can cut a flat edge and smooth surface on your stock. For instance, if you have a 2×4 with a roughed up edge, you can place it, rough side down, against the fence on the jointer. Using a push stick, push the 2×4 across the jointer knives, and it will cut down the rough parts of the edge. You may have to make several passes to get the surface completely smooth. This will not only give you cleaner cuts, but it will save wear and tear on your motor and knives. Remember, too, to always allow the blades to get up to full speed before you begin cutting.

You’ll need to give slight downward pressure to the stock as it goes through the jointer. Shift the pressure to the front of the stock as it exits the blades. Do not lift the stock until it is completely free of the blades. Then, return to the starting point for your second pass.

A jointer makes it possible to salvage bowed or warped stock that you previously may have had to discard. With a bowed board, place in on the infeed table with the bow in the center, facing up. This will keep it from rocking on the table. The two ends of the piece will be jointed first, which is OK. If you have to joint an edge that is rocking, keep your pressure on the infeed table to reduce the rocking as much as possible.

To square edges, make sure that the fence is truly at a 90 degree angle to the tables. Remember your layout square? You’ll use that for this task. Since you’re preparing a squared edge, place most of your pressure on the fence, making sure the wood stays straight up and down as the blades do their work. Numerous, small cuts are preferable to one big one.

The fact that the fence can be angled gives you the chance to make mitered butt joints. You can also make plunges on the jointer, giving your stock chamfered edges.

Non-Tool Tools

It may well be that the most valuable tools you own in your woodworking shop are not tools at all.

#39: The Manual

Each of the tools you purchase for your shop will come with a manual. Just resign yourself right now to reading instructions. Most tools returned to mail order companies and home improvement stores as “defective” simply were not used according to instructions. The hands-on nature of woodworking often means there is a large population of craftsmen who don’t care to read instructions, but when you’re dealing with, ultimately, thousands of dollars worth of equipment, all of which can eat your hands, you’re much better off referring to the operator’s manual, rather than learning by trial and error.

A single-drawer file cabinet will hold all of your manuals and warranty information. Keep a separate file on each tool – yes, even your screwdrivers – because many of those are warrantied, too. For filing purposes, file either according to make, such as Black & Decker, Ryobi, or by tool, such as “router bits”, “router”, “router table”, etc.

You may be able to find magazine protectors at your local office supply store. While they are harder to find, they will make it possible to keep your manual with your equipment without the manual being damaged. Some truly dedicated woodworkers even make their own notebooks out of the operators manuals. They take them apart, putting each page in a page protector, reassembling them in a notebook binder. The binder is then left on a shelf under the saw, if possible, or displayed on a shelf for easy reference. You can imagine that the equipment of these woodworkers is also in pristine condition. While you may not go to these lengths to keep your manuals handy, at least read through them at least once, when you first get your equipment.

Each manual will have suggestions for not only safe operation, but for special uses, as well. Chances are, if you’re having trouble with your machine, the problem is addressed in the manual, and you can save yourself a lot of time and frustration by troubleshooting with the operator’s manual.

#40: The Safety Equipment

The safety equipment you use may save irreplaceable parts of you. Fingers don’t grow back, so use feather boards, push sticks, and always use tools according to directions. You should always have proper backup as you feed material through machines, and keep the pressure applied to the correct parts of the stock, as in your instruction manuals.

Your vision and hearing are equally irreplaceable, so always wear safety glasses. If you wear prescription lenses, you order them with safety lenses, making it easy to protect your eyes while you work. Ordinary glasses are not safety lenses, and may shatter if a projectile hits them, causing even more damage.

Your hearing can be protected with earplugs purchased at the hardware store or the local Wal-Mart. If you don’t find them in the sleep-aid section, check the hunting section. You can find the kind that have a string connecting them, so that you just pull them out of your ears when you’re finished cutting, and they lie across your shoulders until you’re ready for them again.

There you have it – 40 tools that every woodworker should think about owning. Ranging in complexity from the humble claw hammer to the complex and potentially dangerous jointer, these tools each have unique uses in the hands of skilled workmen. Proper care of all tools will prolong their lives, and proper use of safety equipment will prolong the quality of your own life. Accessible storage will make your shop not only a safer environment, but it will save you a great deal of time in looking for pieces and parts that you use on a regular basis.

Remember that, with numerous power tools, you’ll need dedicated outlets. While you may not run more than one power tool at a time, it’s still better to try to arrange your shop so that each tool has its own outlet, rather that stringing multi-outlet adapters across the floor, with 5 and 6 powerful tools plugged into each one.

If you keep hand tools in tool drawers or on peg boards where they won’t roll around and bump into each other, the edges and handles will last longer. Keep saw blades oiled and stored flat, when possible, so that the teeth won’t be damaged.

Finally, make sure you have good lighting on all of your work surfaces. Overhead lighting is vital to any workshop, but can cast shadows on your work surface. Shadows can not only interfere with accurate cutting, but can be downright dangerous with the optical illusions they can cause, leading you to get your hands too close to saw blades. As you lay out your shop and plan outlets for your power tools, plan for an outlet for a work light, too. You can get excellent work surface lights that will clip on, or mount onto the wall behind your equipment, or stand on the floor and adjust to shine on multiple surfaces.

However you choose to arrange your woodworking shop, the equipment listed above will give you years of use and pleasure.

Source:http://www.wagnermeters.com/wood-moisture-meter/top-40-woodworking-tools/